Taper Large Concrete Kit

A brick & step light concrete kit is a pre‑formed box or form that preserves the exact cavity and mounting points for a step/brick light during a concrete or masonry pour. Use one any time you’re building new stairs, walls, or landings and want a flush, code‑compliant fixture opening with protected wiring.

Most kits include a concrete form or back box, spacers or plaster rings, and knockouts for conduit. You’ll typically need a level, tape, rebar ties or screws, shims, and duct tape/plugs to keep slurry out. Some brands add gaskets and mounting hardware—verify the specific bill of materials.

Kits are designed around common brick/step light envelopes. Many accommodate standard “brick‑size” faceplates and modular LED step lights. Always match the manufacturer’s rough‑in template for overall box depth, width, height, and mounting hole pattern before the pour.

Follow the fixture’s rating: low‑voltage (12/24 V) runs from a landscape transformer; line‑voltage (120 V) requires a listed box and conduit. Stub conduit into the kit through listed knockouts, leave a drip loop, and pull extra conductor for final terminations. Seal penetrations per code to keep water out.

Set the kit flush to the finished face (accounting for any veneer/thin brick). Plumb and level it, tie it to rebar or framing so it can’t float, and brace with shims. Cap the opening and knockouts to prevent paste intrusion. Confirm the front edge aligns with the finished surface plane.

Slope the cavity bottom slightly to shed water or include a drainage path if specified by the manufacturer. Use wet‑location‑rated fixtures with gaskets, seal conduit entries, and avoid trapping water behind the faceplate. In freeze climates, ensure there’s no pocket where water can sit and expand.

Let concrete cure per structural guidance; many installs set the luminaire after initial cure to avoid vibration or misalignment. Remove any temporary plugs, clean edges, and use the included plaster ring or trim to finish. Do not pack mortar inside the wiring space or over the mounting holes.

These kits are optimized for new work. For existing walls, use a masonry cut‑in box or surface/brick‑light housing designed for retrofit rather than a pour‑in kit. Cutting existing structural concrete should be evaluated by a professional.

Purpose‑built kits resist crush and maintain perfect geometry during the pour, so the fixture sits square and flush. They also provide proper conduit entries and mounting points, reducing call‑backs from crooked trims, cracked masonry, or damaged wiring.

Pre‑pour: verify box level/plumb, conduit stub and orientation, depth for finish materials, and that the opening is capped. Post‑pour: confirm the opening is clear, mounting holes are intact, wiring is accessible, and the face is flush before setting the light.